All You Ever Wanted To Know About Waves

Author: PC Pro Schools

Surfing can be one of the most fun and exciting beach activities to engage in.  Most surfers, however, usually reside on the west coast because surfing requires tall waves. Tall waves are produced by wind, assigning them the name wind waves. There are a few factors that determine the formation of wind waves. Wind speed and water depth are two self-explanatory factors which determine wave size.

The three types of waves are known as ripples, sea waves, and swells. Ripples are small waves that appear on top of the water or ocean and they last as long as the breeze lasts. You can see ripples on a very calm, beautiful day out on the boat or looking out onto a crystal clear lake. Sea waves are the next step up from ripples. They tend to be a bit larger and taller than ripples and can be described as more of a "choppy"  look when looking out onto the ocean or lake.  A day out on the water where the wind has picked up and the waves are larger than ripples doesn't always make for the best day because it can be difficult to drive a boat fast. And then, when these seas separate and the wind picks up even more, you are left with what are called swells. And you definitely don't want to be taking the boat out on a day with swells because the boat would be rocking back and forth and some of your passengers would probably become sea sick.

When a wave becomes too tall and the bottom can no longer support its top then it collapses, or breaks. Breaking waves are what surfers use to "ride." Surfers identify a few different types of waves that they like to use. Spilling waves are the safest and most common type of breaking wave and can be the easiest to surf. Plunging waves break abruptly and can throw surfers down, making them slam hard onto the beach bottom. Plunging waves can be caused by offshore winds or a risen sea bottom. This type of breaking wave is dangerous and used by only the most experienced surfers. And lastly, there are surging waves. These waves sometimes don't even break as they reach the edge of the water and tend to form on shorelines that are very steep. Also, the water below surging waves is considerably deep and can be a dangerous because they can drag surfers down into the depths of the ocean floor.

So, before grabbing your long board and heading down to the beach, take into account some of this information because if you aren't an experienced surfer then this sport can be quite dangerous and the waters can be treacherous.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/science-articles/all-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-waves-2104046.html

About the Author

This article was written by PC Pro Schools on behalf of Oliver's Beach Blankets